A Cultural History of the Purse in America

The Things She Carried book cover

Kathleen B. Casey’s latest book, The Things She Carried: A Cultural History of the Purse in America, explores how the seemingly ordinary object of a purse reveals rich, textured stories about gender, sexuality, race, identity, privacy, and power in America.

This book is ideal for readers interested in:

This book is ideal for readers interested in:

  • Women’s daily lives, past and present
  • American history, politics, and culture
  • Race, gender and sexuality 
  • Clothing and material culture
  • Everyday objects as historical texts
What You’ll Discover

What You’ll Discover

  • The ingenious ways enslaved women used sacks and purses to create private spaces and prepare to run away
  • The surprising role that pocketbooks played in the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory fire of 1911, which killed 123 girls and women. Pocketbooks will also play a definitive role in the criminal trial that followed.
  • The evolving relationship between bags, women’s bodies, and personal hygiene in the 1920 and 1930s
  • The ways Southern Black women used handbags to protect their bodies as they voted, sat-in, rode on public transportation, and integrated schools during the Civil Rights Movement
  • How some LGBTQ+ Americans used purses as unexpected sites of resistance. At the same time, carrying a purse made gay men vulnerable to violence
Order Now:

Order Now:

Available August 2025 at:

  • Bookshop.org
  • Oxford University Press – use code AAFLYG6 for a 30% discount!
  • Amazon
1852 1852
1850s 1850s
1889 1889
1909 1909
1910s 1910s
1911 1911
1921 1921
1924 1924
1936 1936
1941-1945 1941-1945
1943 1943
1959 1959
1966 1966
1969 1969
1977 1977
1978 1978
1999 1999
2001 2001
2007 2007
2020 2020

1852

Citation: Photo courtesy Middleton Place via Shameran81/Wikimedia.

When an enslaved mother named Rose learns her 9 year old daughter Ashley will soon be sold away, she grabs a three-foot long sack and fills it with pecans, a tattered dress, and a clipping of her hair, giving it to her daughter Ashley just before she is sold away. They never see each other again but Ashley keeps the sack. Decades later, Ruth Middleton, the great-granddaughter of Rose, embroiders the story of the sack on to the sack itself in three different color threads.

1850s

Citation: Collection of the National Museum of African American History & Culture shared with the Library of Congress. Photo circa 1870s. 

Harriet Tubman (1842-1921) travels with an “old-fashioned reticule”; she also keeps it close while giving abolitionist speeches. Inside her bag, she carries small photos of other anti-slavery activists, asking strangers to identify the people in the photos to make sure they aren’t slave catchers.  In 1873, Harriet Tubman is lured into the woods, chloroformed, and robbed of her purse by con-men claiming to have gold.

1889

Citation: Circa 1890, the Miriam and Ira D. Wallach Division of Art, Print Collection, New York Public Library. 

Nellie Bly flies around the world by herself with a single leather bag, just 16 inches wide and 7 inches tall. In her portrait taken before her departure, she appears in a hat, dark gloves, and full-length plaid coat, holding her “grip-sack” in her left hand.

 

1909

Citation: “Spring Features in Women’s Apparel,” Sears, Roebuck and Co., Spring 1909, 26

The exteriors of many affordable bags sold at this time were constructed of black seal grain leather, reputed to be of “good” or “finest” quality. Lined interiors often featured a silky moiré cloth and interior pockets for additional storage and privacy. Many of these bags featured metal frames with a snap catch or double short leather handles. The largest bag for sale in this issue of Sears, Roebuck and Co.’s catalogue was eleven inches wide.

1910s

Citation: Suffragist bags, circa 1913-1920. Author’s photograph, August 2016, Schlesinger Library on American Women, Harvard University. 

Suffragists emblazon the slogan “Votes For Women” on canvas tote bags, using them to advertise their cause and hand out suffragist newspapers in the streets. During a research trip at Harvard, I encountered two cream-colored canvas suffragist bags, the smaller of which features a green and purple stripe and no interior pockets. The larger bag contains three interior pockets and was likely used to distribute suffrage newspapers.

1911

Citation: Mar 25, 1911. International Ladies’ Garment Workers’ Union Photographs (1885-1985), The Kheel Center for Labor-Management Documentation and Archives, Cornell University.

Immigrant women working at the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory in NYC are waiting in line to have their purses inspected to make sure they don’t steal fabric and trimmings when a fire breaks out. 123 women will die that day. Police use the contents of their purses to help identify the bodies. Two years before the fire, the “Uprising of the 20,000” in 1909, striking factory workers locked arms with other activists and more famous benefactors as they marched toward City Hall to protest police violence against the striking workers.

1921

Caption: Archival assortment of purses representing different styles and periods, Author’s photo, New York State Museum, 2015.

The production and sales of purses expands dramatically.

1924

Citation: US1518103A, Google Patent Image.  

Salvatore Picciotto receives a patent for his invention of a purse-sized vanity case designed to look like a gun. When the trigger is pulled, perfume squirts out the nozzle.

1936

Citation: Good Housekeeping 104, is. 4 (Apr 1937), 190.

Tampax begins selling tampons for the first time, heavily relying on images of purses in their marketing materials. Ads note that women can store a “month’s supply” of Tampax in a “purse-size package.”

1941-1945

Citation: Author’s photograph, 2015. Katherine Keene Papers, 1941-1977, Box 5, MC 817,5CB.1m, Schlesinger Library, Harvard University.

World War II begins and American women begin enlisting in the WAAC (Women’s Auxiliary Army Corps). They are issued standardized brown leather bags as part of their uniforms. The purses have eight interior compartments and a brown hairnet was discovered in one of them. The women are specifically instructed to wear the bags diagonally across their bodies from the left shoulder. This bag belonged to Katherine Keene, who joined the WAAC in 1942.

1943

Photo courtesy of Architect of the Capitol, https://www.aoc.gov/art/other-statues/rosa-parks

At the age of 42, Rosa Parks uses her purse to attempt to integrate a Montgomery city bus. Erected in the United States Capitol Building in 2013, this memorial shows Rosa Parks seated with her ankles primly crossed and her small, snap-close purse dangling from her fingers. She has her coat closed and wears a pillbox hat, short Oxford heels, and glasses.

1959

Citation: Daisy Bates, Little Rock Central High School National Historic Site, U.S. National Park Service, Public Domain.

Civil rights activist Daisy Bates escorts the Little Rock Nine to school in Arkansas, while surreptitiously carrying a gun in her purse.

1966

Citation: Author’s photos. Corner of Turk and Taylor streets, San Francisco, July 2022. 

Transwomen and drag queens use their purses to fight off the police at Compton’s Cafeteria in San Francisco’s Tenderloin district. The image on the left shows a current landmark on the sidewalk between Turk and Taylor’s Street. The corner of San Francisco’s Tenderloin district has been renamed “Gene Compton’s Cafeteria Way.”

1969

Citation: Marsha P. Johnson during or before 1977, Hank O’Neal. Public domain via Wikimedia Commons.

Transwoman Marsha P. Johnson climbs a telephone pole and throws her bag (with a brick inside) on to the windshield of a police car during the riots at the Stonewall Inn. 

1977

Citation: Author’s photograph, July 2022. “Gay Bob,” LGBTQIA Realia Collection. San Francisco Public Library. 

Harvey Rosenberg spends 10,000 dollars to develop “Gay Bob,” a Ken-like doll that carries a leather purse. Gay Bob, whose wrists are hinge-able, is shown standing inside his closet. To play with him, of course, you must take him out of the closet. Note the brown cowboy boots, plaid shirt, gold necklace and stud in his left ear.

1978

Citation: The U.S. border fence near EL PASO, August 2006, Office of Representative Phil Gingrey. Public domain via Wikimedia Commons.

Two Mexican men are detained at the border because one of them is carrying a “woman’s handbag.” They are denied entry to the US for this reason. Months later, Canadian lesbian Ariane Brunet and her friends travel to the Michigan Womyn’s Festival and are asked about their sexual orientations at the border. One officer, intent on proving Brunet was gay, asked her, “Have you ever carried a purse?” 

1999

Caption: Photograph of Jerry Falwell, evangelical and leader of the Moral Majority, by Deborah Thomas, 1984. Public domain via the State Archives of Florida.

66-year-old Jerry Falwell, founder and president of Liberty University, warns parents that Tinky Winky (of the children’s show Teletubbies) models the “homosexual lifestyle” for children. He cites Tinky Winky’s red purse as evidence of his homosexuality.    

2001

Citation: Nashville riverside at sunset. Photo by Kortney Musselman on Unsplash

In Nashville, Tennessee, 38-year-old bus driver Willie Houston is murdered by a stranger after entering a men’s restroom with a male friend while carrying his fiancé’s purse. The two had just gotten engaged and were celebrating on a midnight river cruise with friends.

2007

Citation: Photo courtesy of Sarah Cochran, Aug 2024.

Fisher-Price’s issues “Pretty Learning Purse,” now marketed as “My Smart Purse”, is still available for purchase at the time of this writing. Intended for use by baby girls between the ages of 6 and 36 months, the purse speaks and tells players, “Let’s go shopping!” It comes with a mirror and fake credit card.

2020

With the onset of the Covid-19 pandemic, pundits predict the end of purses. Sales briefly dip.

Read Early Reviews

“The Things She Carried is an impressive study of how purses not only ‘enabled humans to morph into marsupials,’ but played important roles as ‘objects with agency’ throughout centuries of American history.”

Rachel Jagareski
- Foreward Reviews

“An enlightening exploration of the background of an everyday object; perfect for fans of gender and fashion history.”

Tina Panik
- Library Journal

Order directly from Oxford and use the code AAFLYG6 to get 30% off

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